Saturday, 25 October 2014

Review: Gertie Sews Vintage Casual

First up - this is a full on book review, so if you just want to know about the patterns go to the part marked PATTERNS half way down!

I bought this book as I've always been interested in styles of the past, but don't have a life that requires cocktails dresses or suits. Also, I look strange in some of the 'vintage' styles. The subtitle is 'A Modern Guide To Sportswear Styles Of The 1940's And 1950's', so I purchased it with much hope.

As you can see, the format is spiral bound hardback. 

I found Gertie's writing style light hearted while still being clear - if you like her blog, the book has the same tone. 

Photogprahs are clear and appropriate to illustrate techniques described in the text.

The first section is SKILLS. Unless you are completely new to sewing, these sections can be really boring. The information here was more comprehensive/detailed than many similar books I have read, and while I did know most of it there were a few useful reminders, such as where to interface - an area I could really improve on. I've had a few problems with my zips recently and had completely forgotten about stabilising the area with strips of interfacing!

The whole book is made much more attractive by the addition of gorgeous illustrations such as this one, drawn by Sun Young Park.
They add the charm and style that seduces me in the same way as vintage pattern covers.

Also in this section is a chapter on fitting and a chapter on pattern making, necessary because of how the patterns work (more below).

PATTERNS
I thought I would try a pattern before I wrote this review because otherwise reviews can be like selling something for someone else when you don't really know if it's any good. I fully admit the pattern I choose is hardly a departure from my normal style. I had this organic cotton stripe jersey in my stash for a summer t-shirt that never happened, so it was the economic choice. When I make something woven from the book I'll put a new link in at the end of the post.

This is the Boat Neck Top I made in the book:
And here is mine IRL:
How the patterns work is there is a core of 10 full size, multi-size patterns on which all the garments are based. There is some overlay (nothing major) so you trace off whatever you want to make, then follow the instructions to alter the patterns to produce variations. This top was based off the Knit Sweetheart Top pattern (garment picture below).

To make it into a boat neck, I resized the shoulder area, re-drew the neck (using French curves) and swapped out the sleeves following the instructions. It wasn't difficult at all but maybe not ideal for complete beginners. There is quite a bit of flipping back between pages to refer to method for the base garments during construction as well, so there is some room for confusion for a total newbie. Having said that, none of the designs are complicated. For me, it's a nice 'step up' book, giving a little confidence in altering and fitting basic designs.

Sizes are 32" - 46" bust, 24" - 38" waist and 36" - 50" hip. My bust measurement fell between two sizes so I went for the larger one which was a good call as this top is just as fitted as the photo suggests.
I would have to be feeling pretty body confident to wear this without a cardigan. I think a little looser, more figure skimming than figure hugging does me more favours. However, I would consider making it again in black, as I am firmly of the opinion that this will turn me visually into a B cup ;)

Here's the back view for reference:
I shortened it by an inch or so but I am petite so there's plenty of length there for everyone else.

Pictured below are a couple of the designs I really like and can see complementing my existing wardrobe.

would also love this but know I couldn't carry it off.

SUMMARY
Most of the patterns in this book are relatively simple shapes that can be adapted to produce different variations. Some, such as the jumpsuit, zip-front house dress and sailor blouse feel like they do have a more old school vibe and I really like those too. A massive plus for me though was that the majority of the patterns could be styled in a modern/classic or vintage direction - exactly what I was looking for - and I this will surely widen the book's appeal. I think it would make a nice present for a sewer who wanted to move on from the basics, especially if they didn't have a large pattern collection. It is a very cost effective way to get a collection of basic garment patterns.

Have you seen or bought this book? What do you think of it?

As ever, I paid for this book myself, don't know the author from Adam, and all opinions expressed are my own :)

Happy sewing, 'till next time,

Philippa X